Uromastyx can be both shy and sociable, and it will depend on each individual. However, the problem of constant hiding might be caused by other factors, too. In this post, you will find possible reasons of why a uromastyx is always hiding and what to do about it.
Reason 1: It’s new and scared
New uromastyx always tend to hide a lot and not come out of their hides. Believe it or not, some uromastyx can take a longer time to acclimatize and trust their owner. Some uromastyx will get comfortable in the new surroundings within a week or two, while other might take months and even up to a year! This is especially true with wild caught animals or those that were not handled before.
Please do not try to handle your new uromastyx for at least first 2-4 weeks (apart from weighing and removing it for cleaning). You can also cover the sides of the tank with a cloth so that your uromastyx feels secure.
Include at least one on each side of the tank. Make sure that hides are low. Uromastyx feel safe when they can hide in tight places.
If your uromastyx doesn’t come out to bask either, place a ceramic tile under the hide. This way it will be able to get warm without the need to stress and come out to get warm. Take small steps week by week. Do this until your uromastyx is not scared of you anymore and doesn’t hide when you are near its tank.
However, sometimes you might need to handle your uromastyx few times a week to show it that you are not a predator. If you don’t handle your uromastyx at all, it migth stay or become even more skittish.
And if it doesn’t come out to eat, try to tempt it by leaving some food near the hide. If it doesn’t come out for few days in a row, try to take it out and place on a basking rock. This might perk it up and encourage to eat.
Reason 2: The tank is too hot
If the tank is too cold or hot, your uromastyx is very likely to hide. When the tank is too hot, your uromastyx will mostly stay on the cool side. It will also hide a lot, as well as dig to try to cool down. You might also notice your uromastyx panting.
If you notice behaviors like this, please review the heating in the tank. Use digital thermometers and a handled infrared thermometer like this to measure the temperatures in the hot, middle and cool spots.
Hot side of the tank should reach 95-110 degrees F (35-43.3 C). The basking spot should reach 131-140 Fahrenheit (55-60 Celsius). Anything higher than 140 (60 Celsius) right under the bulb is too hot.
Background temperatures in the warm spot should reach 95-110 Fahrenheit (35-43.3 C). Cooler spot of the tank must be within 80-85 Fahrenheit (26.6-29.4 Celsius). Anything higher than 85 F (29.4 C) in the cool spot is too hot.
If you check the temperatures with the handheld thermometer and they are too high, please take action immediately. Very high temperatures will cause dehydration, overheating and possible death. You can lower the tank temperatures by lifting the heating bulb higher from the tank. Or, you can reduce the wattage and type of the bulb.
Reason 3: The tank is too cold
If the tank is too cold, your uromastyx will also hide more. This is because it won’t have much energy to move around due to being cold. Other signs are lethargy, refusing to eat and not pooping. Cold temperatures in the house in winter can cause drops in temperature inside the tank. Cooler temperatures might also induce brumation in your uromastyx.
Because it’s cold in the tank, your uromastyx won’t be able to digest food properly. This can also cause constipation and food rotting in the guts. If the tank is cold, your uromastyx will mostly lay sleeping and won’t move around much.
Once again, please use an infrared handheld thermometer to measure temperatures in a hot, middle and cool spots of the tank. If the temperature right under the bulb doesn’t reach 122 F (50 Celsius) – it’s too cold for basking.
You can increase the temperature by lowering the bulb closer to the basking spot. Or, by increasing the type/wattage of the bulb (for example from 100 to 150 watt).
You can also have an additional bulb such as a 25 watt ceramic heat emitter. But that’s only if the tank is well lit and bright enough with 1 bulb. Or, you can also add another low wattage incandescent/basking bulb. Ambient temperature in the hot spot should reach at least 95 F (35 C), and 80 F (26.6 C) in the cool spot.
Reason 4: Lighting issues
Lighting setup might cause your uromastyx to hide. For example, most uromastyx don’t like the mercury vapor bulbs – the will be less active & hide a lot (some even squint). If you are using a mercury vapor bulb, and your uromastyx hides a lot, try to switch to a UVB tube instead.
Also, if the tank is not well-lit, your uromastyx will be less active and not really interested in food/basking. Bright light that at least mimics sun promotes healthy behavior and appetite.
When choosing light bulbs, make sure its color temperature is high – 6500 K represents daylight color (at least 5000 Kelvin). Avoid soft white or cool white colored bulbs. A UVB tube that runs along the tank will also add to visual light. Higher lumen count will also add to the brightness of the bulb.
You can find a full lighting and heating guide here.
Reason 5: Brumation
Uromastyx can brumate during colder period of the year, which in USA, Canada and Europe can last from end October to February. In the Southern hemisphere (Australia and other countries located to the south of the equator), brumation can last any time from June-August.
Some uromastyx will naturally slow down during this period of the year even if you don’t make big changes in the tank. However, it’s recommended to reduce the number of light vs. darkness to around 12-12.
When spring comes, you can slowly increase to 13 or 14 light vs. 10-11 darkness. Unless you are experienced and want to breed your uromastyx, don’t lower the temperatures.
Signs of brumation include not eating and not pooping, hiding and sleeping a lot, not basking, being skittish. Most will come out for an hour or few, eat a little every few days, and then go back to the hide. However, your uromastyx must not lose weight – make sure to check once in 2 weeks.
Reason 6: It’s sick
If your uromastyx is sick, it will be reluctant to come out and roam the tank. Instead, you will find it hiding and sleeping more, as well as not eating. If you also notice any symptoms or an illness, such as sunken eyes, bloody or runny poop, take your uromastyx to the vet.
If you use loose substrate and your uromastyx hasn’t pooped for more than 5 days, it could be impacted. Another big sign is when your uromastyx suddenly changes its behavior.
If you suspect a parasitic infection or if you have never got its poop checked, please take a fresh sample (within 2 hours) for a full fecal test. Blood tests might also be required to rule out an infection.
Reason 7: It can be normal
Believe it or not, many uromastyx spend most hours of the day laying in the hide and only coming out for few hours. In the wild, most uromastyx go back to their hides after they find some food and eat, to hide from heat and predators. If your uromastyx is a wild caught, then the chances of this are very high. This is assuming it’s healthy and that setup is ideal.
This is a typical behavior for many uromastyx, especially during the colder months of the year. Brumating uromastyx will come out for some time, eat a little (or nothing), and go back to sleep.
It can also be because the cool area of the tank is too cold, and your uromastyx is also cool and doesn’t have much energy and interest to come out. Ideal cool side temperatures are between 80-85 Fahrenheit (26.6-29.4 Celsius). Anything under 80 F is too low.
Please use a digital thermometer and a handheld infrared thermometer like this to measure the temperature Inside the hide. Also make sure it’s no too hot on the warm side as discussed in point 2.
Sometimes you need do lure your uromastyx out of the hide so that it gets warm and starts moving around. If your uromastyx doesn’t come out for a day or longer, try to take it out and place it on a basking spot to help it perk up. Don’t do this during brumation however.
Look out for other symptoms to make sure that your uromastyx is not sick. If it does perk up after you take it out and starts eating, basking, pooping and roaming, it is fine.
To learn more about uromastyx care, please visit this resource page.