Depending on your reptile, amphibian or other exotic pet type, you will need to provide some sort of lighting and heating for it/them. In this guide, you will find out about essential lighting for reptiles as well as heating supplies for reptiles and other exotic pets, so that you can setup your pet’s enclosure properly.
Number 1: Light bulbs
Most reptiles and other exotic pets require light bulbs for lighting their tank. Light bulb will provide light and often heat, and is important to help an animal know when it’s a day or night (photoperiod).
There are different light bulb types. However, some exotic pets are fine with just room lighting, and lighting can be skipped if heat is provided differently.
- Incandescent light bulbs
- Halogen flood light bulbs
- LED light bulbs (low heat)
- Special reptile basking light bulbs
- General household bulb
- Mercury vapor bulb – light, UVB and heat – get very hot, better for 40+ gallon tanks
- Ceramic light bulb like this – doesn’t produce light, only heat, so is good for night time, if required
Make sure to always have a spare bulb at home, so you can replace it immediately when a current one burns out. Otherwise, you will leave your pet without light, disturb its photoperiod and possibly leave it without needed heat.
Depending on the size of a cage, its material and room temperatures, you will need to choose a specific wattage bulb. For example, for high heat requiring species in a 100 gallon cage, you might require a 100-150 watt bulb.
Number 2: UVB/full spectrum lighting
Most reptiles/exotic animals require UVB/full spectrum lighting. That is especially true for animals that are active during daytime (diurnal). Reptiles that come from hot and sunny places require higher intensity UVB lighting.
UVB helps animals produce vitamin D3 in the skin. Vitamin D3 is essential for calcium absorption, so lack of this vitamin leads to a Metabolic bone disease and other serious health problems. Only choose reptile full-spectrum lighting, as other types (such as for plants) do not produce UVB.
Long strip UVB tubes are better than smaller concentrated bulbs (however, depends on how much space you have). Mercury vapor bulbs are full-spectrum, too.
- For reptiles/exotic animals from arid places – 10-14% UVB like this
- Reptiles/exotic animals from tropical places or nocturnal – 2-6% UVB
Best types of UVB lighting for reptiles is Exo Terra ReptiSun, Arcadia and more. If you have plants inside the cage, you might require special full-spectrum plant lights, for example LED.
Number 3: Fixture/domes
You will need to house your light bulbs and UVB in a dome/fixture. If you have a cage made of glass or another material with a screen top, you can rest light bulb(s) on top of a screened top in a dome like this. There are single domes (for 1 bulb), or double domes – for two bulbs.
However, if your cage doesn’t have a screen top, you will need to install a light bulb inside. To do this, you will need to get a bracket fixture that you will install on inside top of the cage.
What is more, you need to make sure that your pet can’t touch the light bulb if it’s inside the cage- a light bulb guard will cover it to prevent burns.
To house a UVB tube, you will also need to get a fixture. If it’s a tube light, you will need to get a fixture that can hold the tube. If it’s a bulb, you will need to get a dome.
Number 4: Controlling bulbs and other devices
To control when your lights turn on and off, you will need to get a timer or a reptile power center. You will need to connect your devices to the timer, so that it can turn on and off at specific times to create a photoperiod.
Another very important device that you need is a thermostat like this. A thermostat is a device that you connect your heating devices to. There are different types of thermostats – on/off (cheapest), pulse, dimming. You will need to choose a minimum and maximum temperature for the cage, and put the probe inside the cage.
If a thermostat detects high temperatures, it will turn off/decrease amount of electricity sent to a device. Some thermostats have additional outlets for a cooling device to turn on, if temperatures get too high. Or, an outlet for an additional heating device, if it gets too cold in a cage.
To control temperatures inside the cage, you will need to place at least 2, or better 3 thermometers like this. Place at least one on each opposite side, and one in the middle. Creating a temperature gradient in a cage (warm, cool and ambient temperatures) is very important for a well-being of your pet.
It’s always better to choose digital thermometers, as they are more accurate. Don’t get stick-on or even analog thermometers – they tend to be inaccurate by 5-10 degrees. Some thermometers come with hygrometers – which you also need to measure humidity levels in a cage.
Another great device to check temperatures in various spots of the cage is an infrared handheld thermometer like this. It considered to be one of the essential tools for reptile keepers.
Number 5: Other heating devices
For some exotic animals, it’s better to provide heat with from below. That also applies to animals that need higher humidity levels – as bulbs tend to dry out a cage quicker. Sometimes, both bulbs and pads can be used, depending on a situation and needs.
Other heating devices that are often used are under tank heating pads (UTH) like this. These go under the cage (outside) and provide heat from below. You must choose a heat pad that will cover only 1/3 of a cage, so you can create a gradient.
Other types of heating devices used on the bottom are heating cables like this. Heating cables are laid underneath the tank in loops, and are often water resistant and come in different length. However, they can be harder to set up.
Radiant heat panels are also occasionally used to heat reptile enclosures. These are attached on the top inside of the cage, and often suit cages that are not too high (20″ or similar). Otherwise, it might not be enough to heat the cage and you will need to invest in a 100 watt+ panel.
Similar to ceramic heat emitting bulbs, deep heat projectors are also used to heat the cage without it emitting minimal/no light.