Regurgitation is when an undigested meal is thrown back up and out from the stomach. This can be caused by a number of reasons and is not normal for a ball python. In this post, you will find out why your ball python is regurgitating food or vomiting (mouse, rat etc.), water, and how to tell the difference between regurgitation and poop.
Few of the main reasons why a ball python is regurgitating food or water are very low cage temperatures, feeding very big prey items, handling too soon after feeding. Regurgitation might also be caused by feeding in a separate container or digestive health issues.
Snakes have the natural ability to regurgitate just ingested prey if they are feeling threatened and need to leave their spot/escape. That’s because when digesting, they are vulnerable and spend all energy digesting.
If your ball python has regurgitated shortly after it has eaten, it could be due to stress and feeling threatened. However, regurgitating more than a day after a meal could indicate underlying health issues or other problems in husbandry.
Reason #1: Low or high cage temperatures, temperature spikes
If temperatures in your ball python’s cage are too low, it won’t be able to properly digest its meal. Low temperatures will lead to disturbances in digestion, and general problems in a well-being of your ball python.
Make sure your ball python’s cage has both warm and cool parts, with ambient temperatures in the middle. Warm (basking) spot of the cage must reach – 87-94 F (30.5-34.4 C), but nothing higher than that. Cool side must be on the opposite side, and reach 76-82 Fahrenheit (24.4-27.7 Celsius).
Background temperatures should be between 80-85 F (26.7-29.4 C). Do not cause any sudden temperature drops, as this will lead to issues with digestion and possible regurgitation too. Temperatures at night should stay fairly the same (in the ambient range), so your ball python can digest its food.
You can provide heat in the cage in different ways. This can be a heating lamp, or better – an under tank heater. Make sure to measure temperatures using digital thermometer and a handheld infrared thermometer like this for accuracy. Avoid using stick-on or analog thermometers which tend to be inaccurate by up to 5-10 degrees.
Any spikes in temperatures can also cause regurgitating. Make sure to monitor temperatures and do not increase/decrease them suddenly. This might stress your ball python and it will regurgitate due to this.
You can read all about heating and lighting in a ball python’s cage here (new tab).
Reason #2: Feeding prey items that are too big, or offering too many small items
Feeding correct sized prey to your ball python is extremely important. Very small prey size will leave your ball python hungry and won’t let it thrive properly. But very big prey items will lead to regurgitating and your ball python possibly going on hunger strikes due to this.
Also, a big mistake is feeding rodents that are too small for your ball python. Feeding too many smaller items might make your ball python regurgitate. Ball pythons are fussy eaters, and might only take 1 item and refuse to eat others. So, it’s more correct to offer one larger item rather than few smaller ones.
The best way to determine the right size of prey is to get digital kitchen scales like this. This will allow you to weigh both your ball python and prey, to make sure it’s appropriate size.
In this post, you can find a full chart of ball python weight (and age) and prey size guidelines (opens in a new tab).
Reason #3: Feeding in a separate container
Feeding your ball python in a separate container is not a good idea. This causes stress to your ball python and is generally unnecessary. Extra handling and moving it to a completely different place makes regurgitation much more likely.
So, please feed your ball python in its main cage and don’t move it. Being in a different spot stresses your ball python and might make it refuse food. Extra handling can cause it to regurgitate due to physical movement and stress.
Reason #4: Handling too soon after feeding
Another reason why your ball python might have regurgitated is because you handled it too soon after feeding. You must not handle your ball python for at least 2-3 days after it has eaten.
Otherwise, you will cause it stress and discomfort. Physical movement might also cause digestive upsets and regurgitation. Make sure temperatures are ideal in the cage and don’t handle after feeding to allow proper digestion.
Reason #5: Digestive problems or foreign bodies
If your ball python is suffering from digestive system issues, it can cause regurgitation. For example, gastroenteritis is a disorder of a digestive system that causes issues with digestion, irritation in stomach and more.
It can be caused by parasites or issues in husbandry. Extremely smelly, bloody poop with lots of mucus could also indicate gastroenteritis. Other causes are problems with liver, kidneys, pancreas, brain, protozoan/bacterial infection, cancer.
Also, it can be caused by foreign bodies (obstruction with bones, uric acid ball masses etc.) in your ball python, preventing digestion. If regurgitation persists for more than couple of times and your husbandry is optimal, please take your ball python to a vet for a checkup.
That’s especially if you have reviewed feeding and husbandry, and everything else is fine. In case of gastroenteritis or another digestive system problem, your ball python will need a treatment.
Reason #6: Feeding a bad rodent
If you have recently ordered feeder rodents from a new place or similar, you could have got a bad batch. After eating a bad rodent, your ball python might regurgitate it after a few days. A rodent might also go bad if you overcook it or if it goes rancid.
Reason #7: Stress
If your ball python is stressed, it won’t be able to digest its meal properly and might regurgitate. Your ball python might regurgitate food if it feels unsafe in its cage. That’s because snakes become vulnerable when digesting food, and might get rid of it if feeling unsafe.
Make sure that the cage has at least 2 tight hides on opposite sides with one opening, and enough clutter so that it feels safe. If the cage is large and especially made of glass, you can cover the back and some sides with a cloth or similar, so that it doesn’t feel so exposed.
You might also consider changing bedding or making it deeper to provide a better sense of security. If nothing helps, you can even move your ball python in a smaller enclosure to see if that was the reason.
This can be a simpler plastic tub setup. However, don’t keep changing and adding/moving items in your ball python’s cage too often, that will only cause it more stress.
Difference between regurgitation and poop
There are few differences that can help you tell poop and regurgitation apart. With poop, the consistency will be softer, often with presence of urates (white soft pasty solid urine).
If it’s a regurgitation, you can often smell the sour stomach acid, or it might have a generally different smell from poop. Regurgitation will often be slimy as well and a rodent will be digested partially if at all. You might need to wear gloves and try to take it apart to try tell the difference.
Ball python regurgitation vs. vomit
Also, there’s a difference between vomiting and regurgitating: vomiting/throwing up is when food from below the stomach is expelled, while regurgitation – from the stomach and above.
Ball python throwing up water?
If you saw your ball python throwing up water, it could be because you have moved your ball python shortly it drank, if its stomach was very full or if got very stressed.
Throwing up clear liquid is unlikely to be from lungs unless the snake is upside down (gravity). Ball pythons lack a diaphragm, so they can’t cough up any liquid from their lungs.
If a ball python is suffering from a respiratory disease/pneumonia, it will be lifting its head up and open their mouth to breathe a little bit better. Watch out for any other signs such as above, plus mouth bubbling, popping/clicking sounds and other thicker and slimy discharge.
What to do if my ball python regurgitated?
If your ball python is regurgitating food (mouse, rat etc.), start reviewing your setup and prey sizes. Make sure everything is optimal. If you have found any issue with husbandry, fix it and see if your ball python keeps the meal down with next feeding.
Allow at least 14 days after regurgitation before your feed your ball python again. During this 2 week period, make sure your ball python is well-hydrated, warm and provided with hides. Palpate your ball python’s body to see if you feel anything abnormally tight or any masses (foreign bodies).
However, if husbandry and rodent sizes were optimal, switch to a smaller rodent size for some time. Offer smaller rodents instead of regular and see if your ball python digests it properly. Do this for around 2-4 feedings.
Some ball pythons get very stressed in their enclosure, so you can try to cover the sides of the cage and add more hides/clutter. If it doesn’t help, you can try to move your ball python into a smaller cage. You might also consider changing bedding or making it a bit deeper.
In the meantime, you might also take its fresh poop to a vet for a fecal examination to rule out any parasites. Monitor its weight, by weighing up to few times a month.
If your ball python throws up more than 2-3 times, take it to the vet. Weight loss is also a bad sign on its own, so monitor that as well.
Make sure to clean any regurgitation or poop once you see it. If your ball python is also dirty/soiled, you can gently wash it with some mild baby shampoo or soap. Dry your ball python and return to its cage.
Thank you for reading this post on ball python regurgitating food/water. You can read more about ball python diet, feeding rules and tips in this post.